Hacienda is redefining Mexican cuisine in the Cape

From seafood tamales to his killer Mole Hacienda, every plate packs a punch—and a story. GQ sat down with the chef to chat about his journey, his flavour game, and how Hacienda is shaking up Mexican food in the Cape.Justin Baker:  I stayed true to traditional Mexican techniques by grounding every dish in authentic methods, like how we make our in-house tortilla with masa harina and fresh masa or slow roasting and fermenting ingredients, while adapting to Cape Town’s Local Produce And Palate. It’s about respecting the roots, but evolving the expression

GQ: Your menu at Hacienda draws inspiration from the coastal regions of Mexico. What was your first taste of authentic Mexican cuisine, and how did it shape your culinary direction?

Justin Baker: My first deep dive into authentic Mexican cuisine happened in Mexico City, where I had the chance to dine at Puljol. The complexity and restraint of that meal, especially their signature mole it completely reframed how I saw Mexican food.That experience sparked a passion for development through research, testing, and a fair share of trial and error. From street food to fine dining, I immersed myself in the layers of the cuisine, driven by a commitment to translate its essence with honesty and respect back home in Cape Town.

GQ: Cape Town’s food scene is incredibly diverse—how do you stay true to traditional Mexican techniques while still innovating for a local audience?

GQ: From Baja to Oaxaca, the coastal regions of Mexico offer distinct flavours. Which region do you personally connect with most, and why?

Justin Baker: Oaxaca speaks to me the most, it’s wild, earthy, and unapologetically complex. The use of moles, the deep respect for indigenous ingredients, and the way Seafood is treated with restraint and reverence. It’s all very aligned with how I like to cook.

GQ: You’re working with bold spices, fresh seafood, and local produce—how do you balance authenticity with what’s seasonally available in the Cape?

Justin Baker: Authenticity isn’t about strict replication, it’s about preserving spirit. I work with what or local suppliers have to offer and use traditional techniques to guide the final expression.

GQ: Let’s talk signatures. What’s the one dish on the Hacienda menu that best defines your approach as a chef?

Justin Baker: The Kingklip Ceviche with citrus leche de tigre and our maiz en polvo defines my approach: raw, coastal, sharp with acidity, but grounded in craft. It’s simple at first glance, but every layer has been considered, from the cut of the fish to the way the corn is charred to mimic Mexican street-style.

GQ: Design and atmosphere play a huge role at Hacienda. How much influence do you have over the visual and sensory experience beyond the plate?

Justin Baker: The overall experience is something we all care deeply about. I work closely with our suppliers to create unique ceramics that showcase the food, and I collaborate with the design team to help tell Hacienda’s amazing story. We have dedicated team in PAN collection who care deeply about bringing Mexico’s coastal spirit to life, one plate at a time.

GQ: What’s something most diners probably don’t realise about preparing coastal Mexican cuisine in South Africa?

Justin Baker:  Honestly, how hard it is to source the right chilies, herbs, and even the correct masa flour. We’ve had to build systems around that. Import what we can, grow what we can’t find, and adapt without compromise. There’s a lot of background work in making something taste effortless.

GQ: There’s a lot of talk about “fusion,” but your food seems more like translation than fusion. How do you avoid the trap of gimmicks when reinterpreting traditional dishes?

Justin Baker:  Respect and restraint are key. I’m not here to reinvent for the sake of it. Mexican Cuisine already speaks volumes. If a reinterpretation doesn’t add depth or relevance, we don’t do it. It’s about capturing the emotion and soul of a dish, not just reassembling its parts. We take great care in how we treat every component of the dish

GQ: If you could fly in one ingredient from Mexico without limits—fresh and unfiltered—what would it be and what would you do with it?

Justin Baker: ç would be my pick. Its stringy, buttery texture is incredible when melted. I’d layer it into tacos or quesadillas to bring that creamy, nostalgic bite you only get from true Mexican dairy.

GQ: Finally, every great chef has a comfort dish. When you’re not in the kitchen at Hacienda, what’s on your plate at home?

Justin Baker: Fried chicken wings, broccolini and steamed rice. With a spicy homemade sauce, it hits the spot every time. It’s quick, tasty, and the perfect way to unwind—plus, wings let me ignore any fancy plating rules.

Issued on GQ South Africa by Anele Geqiwe | https://www.gq.co.za/culture/food-drink/hacienda-is-redefining-mexican-cuisine-in-the-cape-f140f83f-f058-46bd-9415-a6f741575807